CULTURAL REVOLUTION: Famed for her large afro, US activist Angela Davis became a poster child for the Black Power movement
First things first, let’s make it abundantly clear: We are fully aware that black women, and indeed all women, are multifaceted beings and how we choose to wear our hair is not the defining aspect of our lives.
We know this.
But with stories still emerging about black women being made to feel that natural hair isn’t welcomed in the workplace; the social media frenzy that was sparked when actress Viola Davis removed her wig to reveal her natural hair in the hit show How To Get Away With Murder; and the undeniable fact that our consumption of hair products contributes to a multi-billion pound industry, it’s quite clear that the issue of black hair remains as relevant now as it did decades ago.
In recent years, the most notable chapter of the black hair story is arguably the rise of ‘team natural’ – the sisters who have chosen to forgo the weaves and relaxers and revert to wearing their hair in its natural state.
With celebrity trendsetters including Solange Knowles, Lupita Nyong’o and Janelle Monae, there has been a notable rise in popularity of afros, natural twists and host of chemical-free hairdos.
“People like to follow trends,” says UK celebrity stylist Marvin Francis (read his full interview on page 24). “It took a small group of influential people to start to wear their natural hair out, showing the benefits of maintaining and caring for it, and others started to follow. This is exactly what has happened.
PRO ‘FRO: Singer Solange Knowles
“The maintenance and money it takes to look after your hair by using chemicals is not practical and does no good to it,” Francis continues. “Using the same time and less money, you can achieve a much better quality of hair.”
The growing trend of natural hair-wearing women has become so fierce that it birthed the term ‘Natural Nazis’; a description given to the sisters that are so pro their ‘fros that they laud condemnation on black women who opt for weaves or chemically-treated hairstyles.
With these women often being deemed as radical, their ethos could be likened to those who embraced the politically-driven Black Power movement of the 1960s and 70s, which saw many black Americans and also black Brits wear their hair in afros as a sign of racial pride.
Though today’s naturalistas may not face the same level of racial discrimination that spawned the 70s drive for cultural pride, some feel there is still a need for us to retain our racial identity.
“In black culture, there’s so much identity that has been lost and because of that, some people are angry and want to hold on to what we have left,” says famed US stylist and inspirational beauty speaker Felicia Leatherwood.
“For some of the natural women, they think, ‘Well, we have our curly hair – nobody can take that from us.’ So when other black women wear their hair straight, they’re like, ‘What are your doing? Your hair isn’t naturally like that.’
“But on the flip side, I’ve had women come to me who work for major companies and have been told that they can’t wear their hair naturally in the workplace. So it’s a very complex issue.”
“I love natural hair,” continues the Los Angeles native. “But I also recognise that every circumstance is different. So the natural girls that go a little hard on those that relax – I think they need to relax a little bit! What you do with your hair is a personal choice.”
London Live news presenter Claudia-Liza Armah believes the black hair issue is complex and admits that being in the public eye does impact on her hair choices.
PRESSURE IN THE PIBLIC EYE: London Live news presenter Claudia-Liza Armah
The reporter, who previously presented BBC Three’s news segment 60 Seconds even states comically on her Twitter profile: “Views are my own – my hair however is not.”
“It’s a tricky one and I think it’s hard to be really sure if the decisions you’re making are of your own mind or if it is society that has dictated your choice,” says Armah. “If all women, black and white, wore afros, maybe I’d wear an afro. But even then, would I be able to say I was wearing an afro because of my own choice, or would it be just because everyone else was doing it? It’s so hard to say.
“But ultimately, when you’re in the public eye, you do have to adhere to bosses and the expectations of members of the public, who expect you to look a certain way. So yes, in the back of your mind, you are thinking, ‘what image will be acceptable to the audience?’”
Explaining that she often opts for a “semi-long, straight” weave, Armah feels that the pro-‘fro women who condemn weave wearers should rethink being so judgmental.
“The thing with those who are very pro-afros, if they’re very negative about those who choose other styles, then they’re perhaps no better than the society that they argue is forcing black women to conform to long, straight hair,” she reasons. “Two wrongs don’t make a right.
GROWING TREND: Recent years have seen a huge rise of black women choosing to wear their hair naturally
“To argue that society is making you choose straight hair but then insist that you wear your hair naturally takes away a person’s choice. And ultimately, it is an issue of personal choice. I’ve changed my hair a lot throughout the years. I love that I can try any hairstyle I like and I don’t think I should be judged for that.”
Keysha Davis, editor of popular UK publication Blackhair Magazine, has worn her hair naturally for almost 15 years. She admits that when she was a youngster, she was “obsessed with long, straight hair” and says that once she turned 16 and was given her mum’s permission to get her hair relaxed, she “couldn’t get to a salon quick enough.”
NATURAL FOR 15 YEARS: Blackhair Magazine editor Keysha Davis
After a 10-year period of relaxing her hair, Davis decided to embark on the natural journey after “a home relaxer job went bad and I was left with a bald patch on my scalp about the size of a 10 pence piece.”
While she is passionate about being natural, Davis remains a “strong advocate of choice when it comes to our hair” – but says she has had “worrying” conversations with black women who have deemed their natural tresses unattractive.
“Although I definitely believe in freedom of choice and expression when it comes to hairstyles – and I'm living testament to that – I have had conversations with some women throughout the years that I've been natural, that I do find a bit worrying,” Davis recalls.
“For instance, comments such as 'My hair will never look like yours if I went natural because it's too nappy'. Or women who constantly wear weaves and admit they wouldn't feel comfortable having their natural hair on display.
“These are just two examples that point to deep rooted insecurities that stem from years of us being systematically brainwashed into believing that kinky, coily afro hair is unattractive, abhorrent and inferior to other races.
“So in that respect, I don't think we can deny that how we wear our hair is political. Rejecting mainstream ideals of what constitutes beauty is definitely revolutionary.”
Grace Kelly, event organiser for the renowned UK black hair exhibition Afro Hair & Beauty Live, says that while naturalistas may well be more culturally-minded than their weave wearing counterparts, this may be because they’re circumstances allow them to be.
“Maybe they [natural hair wearers] are embracing their culture more, but a lot of them are in positions that make that possible,” reasons Kelly, who has worn her hair naturally for many years.
“A lot of them are students, who don’t have the pressure of having to conform their image for the sake of a job. And there are those who write blogs and who are very vocal, so they see themselves as being culturally-minded. That’s great, but when you get into the real world, especially if you work in the city or you have an office job, you’ll probably have to conform to some degree.
SEES BOTH SIDES: Grace Kelly, event organiser for UK exhibition Afro Hair & Beauty Live
“I do think women that tend to wear their hair natural have embraced their culture more, in that they’re really into being who they are and embracing what God gave them. But it’s a difficult one, because there are women out there – women who are also culturally aware – but they wear their hair in a weave because it’s deemed more appropriate for the job they do.
Kelly continues: “Do you see many black women who work in the city who have dreadlocks or afros? I’m sure there are a few of them, but it’s probably more common for them to wear their hair relaxed or in a weave. And I don’t think that means they’re not culturally or politically- minded. You can’t assume a black woman who relaxes her hair or wears a weave is ashamed of her culture anymore than you can assume that a man who has dreadlocks is a Rasta.”
Though she is a natural hair specialist, Leatherwood says she is both pro-natural and pro-choice.
“I am both of those because I understand everybody has different issues,” the stylist confirms.“
Some women get a hard time for wearing weaves. But I have women coming to me who have alopecia issues or they’ve suffered hair loss due to chemotherapy. They want to wear their hair like everybody else, so they get a weave. This is why some people need to take a step back with their judgment and realise that everybody has different issues when it comes to their hair.
STRONG VIEWS: US hair stylist Felicia Leatherwood
“This is why I’m an inspirational beauty speaker, as opposed to a motivational beauty speaker. With motivational speakers, it’s like you’re boot-camping someone and giving them instruction. With inspiration, you show up feeling confident about who you are and that inspires others to be the same.”
She concludes: “If you see a person drowning, you put your hand out to help them, you don’t stand over them shouting, ‘Why did you get in the pool?’
“You want to help and inspire. That’s what I aim to do and when it comes to our hair, I think we should all aim to be less judgmental and more inspiring.”
Source: Voice-online
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