Thursday 5 July 2012

All new for Naturals at the Afro Hair and Beauty Live June 2012

Unfortunately, I haven't been able to go to the Afro Hair and Beauty Live this year, but I've only heard good things about, from the lucky ones who went. I go this article, which I thought would be great to share with all the naturals out there. It was that time of the year again, time for Afro Hair and Beauty Live 2012, a show that brings all the latest in beauty and haircare for Black women. This year marked a very special year for the event, 2012 marked the first time that Afro Hair and Beauty Live had a special section dedicated to products designed especially for natural hair. With the natural hair ‘movement’ that is happening around the world, it would have been incomplete to have one of biggest hair shows in Europe not showcasing products for the natural ladies and gents. Just last year only two stands represented the natural hair community, Root2Tip (ran by Sal Ayeesha) and My Hairitage (founded by Ansylla Ramsey). As well as products there were also several workshops being run by the likes of Felicia Leatherwood, Natures Parlour and Root2Tip. Team Blackgirlflow was very pleased indeed to see shows as big as this one recognising the need for diversity and options; although Miss Jessie’s stole the show in terms of location and space, it was nevertheless encouraging to see UK based companies such as Mahogany Naturals, Shea Butter Cottage and Iman Made being represented. A particular one that caught our attention was Noir Essence who are launching their products this September. There were many other vendors present and as we arrived quite close to closing time, we didn’t get much chance to visit them all. One thing we noticed was that there was definitely a balance with what was on offer. Women, whether natural or weaved up are focusing on caring for their own hair, and their were products to cater to all of us. We would have liked to see even more variety in the stands, of course the main focus was hair, but we were disappointed not to see BlackUp cosmetics or even Sleek Make-up, even though they had a massive stand showcasing wigs and weave. All in all it was a great day and the event was definitely worth the visit. Source: http://www.blackgirlflow.com/2012/06/afro-hair-and-beauty-live-2/

Wednesday 4 July 2012

How to keep your black hair healthy and shiny

Here are some great tips that I found on the internet and I'm sure you will enjoy if your aim is to keep your locks healthy and shiny. Whether you are natural or relaxed, your hair deserve a lot of tlc, and a consistent routine. Enjoy this article and let us know what you think of it.



Here's the article
Caring for African American hair requires extra attention to keep it healthy and shiny. Because of its coarse state, many African American women use chemicals such as relaxers for management as well as styling options. These chemicals break the protein bond in the shaft, thus making it more vulnerable to damage and breakage.
Also shine has also been an issue with African American hair due to the texture. Light reflects at a higher rate on smooth linear surface such as Euro hair provides. This is not so with afro hair, thus it requires assistance to maintain a shine.

There are four components to keeping African American hair healthy and shiny. They are washing, conditioning, moisturizing and protecting.

WASHING
Most of us grew up washing our hair once a week or once every two weeks. Imagine the build up your scalp accumulates during a seven to fourteen day cycle. It is essential to wash one’s hair more than once a week, in order to keep the scalp clean and free to breathe. A healthy scalp promotes a healthy environment for hair to grow. A secondary benefit of frequent hair washing is scalp stimulation. Stimulating the scalp encourages blood circulation in the scalp, which is essential for bringing nutrients to the scalp and hair.
Just as important as the frequency of washing, are the products used when washing. There are three products that may be used to cleanse the hair and scalp: shampoo, conditioner and apple cider vinegar.
Shampoo cleanses our hair by stripping it of products and natural oil build up. Due to this fact, shampoo can dry the hair out. When washing one’s hair daily, one should use a protein conditioner only. There is enough detergent in the conditioner to cleanse the hair. The conditioner also provides elasticity and strength to the hair, which helps guard against excessive shedding and breakage.
If daily, bi-weekly or tri-weekly conditioner washes are in your routine, you must take care to prevent conditioner build up. This is done through weekly washes with a shampoo or an apple cider vinegar ( ACV ) rinse.
Apple cider vinegar ( ACV ) rinses are one part vinegar and three parts water. One might be careful not to use too much vinegar or the hair will be stripped and the pH level too acidic. ACV rinses clean the hair and scalp of product build up as well as providing “slip”. Slip is the level o f smoothness the hair shaft achieves. It is usually measured by folding dry hair into a loose knot and witnessing it “slip’ out of the knot, due to the smoothness.
The smoothness is a result of the cuticle shaft being closed. This is also highly responsible for shine. The smooth surface reflects light and provides a shine.

CONDITIONING
There are three basic conditioners. They are daily, deep and leave-in conditioners. Daily conditioner is needed after every shampoo or ACV rinse to replenish the moisture lost during the wash.
Deep conditioning is necessary periodically to help mend damage that is done to the hair from chemicals and/or styling tool heat.
Leave-in conditioners help seal the cuticle after a wash and condition. The leave-in provides a layer of protection on the shaft against heat from styling tools.

MOISTURIZING
The major characteristic of Afro hair is the dryness. Daily moisturizing prevents brittleness which leads to breakage. Moisturize the hair only, not the scalp. Applying heavy products such as grease orpomade to the scalp suffocates it. Apply moisture in the form of creams or glycerin spray, sparingly to the hair. But make sure that the ends are thoroughly moisturized. Glycerin sprays also provides a high shine for the hair, especially for close to the head styles. Oil sheen should be used for flowing styles.

PROTECTION
Protect the hair against friction by tying the hair up with a silk scarf at bed time. Also use satin pillow cases for additional protection against breakage.
Protective styles such as buns and false ponytails help hair reach optimum length. Saturate the ends with moisture, fold into a knot (secured with a cotton scrunchie) and add a fake ponytail to protect the hair.
Box braids are good for protecting the hair and allowing it to rest from daily manipulation. Be careful not to have them done too tight or breakage will occur.

AVOID
- Tightly braided hair styles. They cause hair shedding and breakage that can be permanent.
- Heat. The less heat, the less damage to the hair.
- Plastic combs with raggedy teeth. They literally cut and shred the hair.
- Rubber bands. They break the hair. Use a scrunchie instead.
The key to keeping African American hair healthy and shiny is maintenance. By keeping the scalp clean and stimulated, the hair conditioned, moisturized and protected the hair will retain a healthy state. Also remember that what comes out of your head is a reflection of what is in your body. Maintain a diet high in Omega fatty acids (found in some fish) and consider vitamin supplements, such as a multi- vitamin, B-complex or Biotin.

Source: http://sleekgossip.com/hair-care-tips-how-keep-african-american-hair-healthy-shiny,2012418

Braid styles: Cornrow, box braid, and maintening your style

If you are like me, you are addicted to braid and can never have enough. Although there is a lot of different styles, I have to say that I always stick to the same one myself. So when I read this article I thought that maybe I could change my style and even if I don't I'm sure some of you will appreciate reading and commenting on this article.
Let me know what type of braids you prefer.



Here's the article:

African American hair is a unique type of hair. It is capable of taking on many textures, from bone straight to afro coarse. Because of the versatility in texture, style options are almost unlimited. One of the most attention grabbing styles is braids.
Braids come in various styles. They can be conservative or eccentric. They provide long lasting styles that require minimal maintenance. They also, when done correctly, provide protection and rest for the natural hair. African American braids can be done with the natural hair, no matter what the texture. One’s hair may be relaxed, curly or kinky, braids are achievable.
Braids can also be done with hair extensions. Hair extensions come in synthetic or human hair form. Hair extensions provide protection of the natural hair as well as length. Extensions also provide the option of experimenting with different colors.
Braid hair styles can be broken into two different subcategories, cornrows and box braids. Cornrows are braids that lay flat to the scalp. Box braids are singular braids that extend away from the scalp.

Cornrows
Cornrows are unisex as well as age appropriate for all. Males tend to favor small to medium size braids, braided from the hairline to the nape of the neck. Some opt for zigzag and/or circular patterns. These are achieved by parting the hair in the desired pattern before braiding. Ladies have the option of braiding the hair upwards to a meeting point on the top of the head. They can fasten a fake ponytail or twist hair into a bun. Ladies can also use hair extensions to achieve the same ponytail style. One of the most famous styles is the “ Cleopatra”. This is done by sectioning the hair from ear to ear in two sections. The back section starts about two-thirds of the crown, towards the back. The hair is braided downward and the braids are continued until minimum shoulder length. The front section is braided from the front hairline until it meets the back section. It is then braided to meet the length of the back section. If using synthetic hair, the ends can be singed or curled using perm rods and boiling water. After dipping braid ends with perm rods in water, absorb excess water with a towel and remove rods.
For little girls, hair can be sectioned down the middle and cornrowed into two ponytails. Cornrow styles are only limited by your imagination.


Box braids
Box braids are more popular than cornrows. They are more popular because of their versatility. You can convert any non-braid style into a braided style with box braids. The style conversion is dependent only on the type of hair used when braiding. Synthetic hair provides for more sturdy styles such as a page boy or any style with bangs. Human hair is best used for styles that are fluid such as a Doobie or ponytail. Human hair extensions are best fro styles that are beyond the shoulder because it is lighter in weight.
Box braids can be worn loose, in a ponytail, twisted, upswept or in a bun. Box braids allow many styles from one set of braids.
Maintenance
The good thing about braids is the minimal maintenance. One can spray oil sheen on their hair and protect it with a scarf at bed time. Box braids allow one to wash their hair frequently and access the scalp, without disturbing the style.
Braids allow the natural hair a rest from daily manipulation. Extensions also protect the natural hair from exposure to the elements.
But one must be careful not to have their braids done tight. Tight braids can cause hair loss and scalp damage. Also one must be careful not to leave extension braids in for more than eight weeks, or the natural hair may become matted.
Braids are fun, versatile and beneficial for the hair. They can take one from the boardroom to vacation, and from day to night. Where will your braids take you?

Source: http://sleekgossip.com/cornrow-box-braid-extension-braid-hair-style-ideas-african-americans,2012466

It looks like the Afro is back (in fashion)

I saw this article on the Worldcrunch website. I can't believe that this is getting so big as to hit such an important mainstream website! Could it be that some products makers are getting worried their profits are going down.
This is highly possible, it is true that since I've gone natural 3 years ago, I haven't spent half as much on hair products as I did when I had my hair relaxed. In fact, nowadays, I only seem to be going to the shop to by kanelon hair extensions for my braids. This is such an improvement on my almost weekly trip to the afro shop.

Here's the article.

A return to what is considered "natural" hair for African-American women is also showing up on Europe's top fashion runways. The afro used to be a political statement, today it's more likely a fashion statement.
Back to your (hair) roots? From activist Angela Davis to singer Erykah Badu (Bundesarchiv/Yancho Sabev)by: fabienBack to your (hair) roots? From activist Angela Davis to singer Erykah Badu (Bundesarchiv/Yancho Sabev)
By Albertine Bourget
LE TEMPS/Worldcrunch

Solange Knowles is a DJ, singer, composer --and a mother. She is also Beyoncรฉ’s sister. But lately the public has only been interested in one thing: her hair. The 26-year-old decided to start keeping her hair natural, Afro-style, rather than straightening it. It’s a “transition” --that’s the term used by African-Americans-- that she talked about on Oprah Winfrey’s show. Since then she has become the ambassador of the “transitioning movement” for a range of beauty products for natural-style hair.
African-American women have long tried to erase their blackness. They abandoned the plaits and the braids that reminded them of the years of segregation and adopted straight, permed blow-dried hair. A flourishing cosmetics industry developed around the treatment of black hair. The return to a more natural hairdo is therefore welcomed with fascination. The topic is debated on media outlets geared towards the African-American community, with explanatory YouTube videos on how to progressively revert to your natural hair.
Opinions are split on how this movement started. Charing Ball, columnist for online magazine Madame Noire, says some credit the influence of Chris Rock’s 2009 movie Good Hair that denounced black women’s dependence on chemical straightening treatments. "I think it has more to do with the apogee of the “neo-soul” movement in the early 2000s, which brought forward artists opposed to those usually in black music,” says Ball, citing such stars as Erykah Badu, Jill Scott or India Arie, and Maxwell for men.
“These artists rekindled the interest for natural hairdos like Afros, dreadlocks or bantu knots,” says Ball. “It helped show another aspect of black life but it also made frizzy hair more culturally acceptable.” The Afro haircut is still linked to the political liberation movement of the 1960s and 1970s and to its icon, activist Angela Davis. At the time, many followed in her steps and rejected straightening as a norm, affirming their freedom and their heritage. In the movies, Pam Grier embodied the black woman’s pride. Others made their hairdo a symbol, like writer Toni Morrison. Today her thick, grey dreadlocks are an integral part of her public image, but the author of Beloved once bore a straight-up Afro.
But the return of big, free hair doesn’t automatically underline a political message. The connection is being made a bit too fast, according to Brian, from the specialized website Treasured Locks. “It’s more of an individual choice more than an identification with a movement,” he says. “Women have become aware of the toxic ingredients in their hair products and they don’t want to use them anymore. Besides, the term “natural” applies both to hair that isn’t transformed as it does to hair that was straightened by the heat. There are even women who use keratin treatments and call it natural…”
An opinion shared by Charing Ball. “Before, choices were limited to the social or political message you wanted to share. In the 1980s, dreadlocks systematically classified you as a Rastafari or as another alternative movement, whereas a neater appearance made you more socially acceptable. Today, I have the feeling that there are fewer political undertones. You can get an Afro one day and straighten your hair the next without making it anything else than an aesthetic choice.”
But the columnist is quick to point out the exceptions. “When Malia, the Obamas' oldest, had her hair braided, there were outraged reactions on conservative forums. Similarly, when a picture of Michelle Obama (already at the center of a controversy in France) with an Afro hairdo was published, it was hailed and admired throughout the black community, even though it was a photomontage. This shows that we are still in a country with racism and that skin color is still a polarizing theme. I would say that many women send out a political message with their return to natural hair without even being aware of it.”
What about in Europe? British รผber-model Naomi Campbell was photographed with an Afro several times, but it was a wig. Since the 1990s, model Noรฉmie Lenoir or German-Nigerian singer Ayo bear their frizzy hair. According to Geneviรจve Desclous, from the Afro 2000 African hair salon in Geneva, “everybody wants volume. Here too, many women are coming back to natural!” The reason? “Simply a return to the 1960s, which you can also see in fashion, clothes and shoes. Even Europeans are picking up on the trend and have frizzy hair during fashion shows.”
Several days ago, Solange Knowles decided to dot the i’s and cross the t’s. Hotly criticized for the small amount of care she gave her hair, she took to Twitter to say that her own hair didn’t interest her that much. The musician Erykah Badu sighed that “for a black woman, almost everything is a political choice.”
Read more from Le Temps in French.
Photo - Bundesarchiv/Yancho Sabev

Source: http://www.worldcrunch.com/afro-back/5756

Tanya's Kinky Relationship With Her Teeny Weenie Afro

The article below was written by Tanya Ballard Brown. Tanya is an editor for NPR.org.  she also has a blog, *Taps Mic*, where you can follow her natural hair journey.
I personally never went for a TWA (Teeny Weenie Afro) as I transitioned with braids for 2 years, until my nappy hair reach APL. I would braid my hair with extensions every month, making sure to chop the relaxed strands each time. I also used megatek to make sure my hair grew a bit faster. Sometimes I wish I had done the Big chop and started with a TWA, as it would have helped my knowing my hair better as it grew.

Here's Tanya's, article:

I cut most of my hair off eight weeks ago. And yes, I meant to do it. I love my new kinky curliness and now, as I walk down the street, I feel like I see natural hair — twists, coils, dreadlocks, afros — everywhere.
A couple of weeks after this latest chop, I experimented with a Billie Holiday look.
A couple of weeks after this latest chop, I experimented with a Billie Holiday look.
 
Alex Cavoulacos/The Daily Muse
 
A couple of weeks after this latest chop, I experimented with a Billie Holiday look.
Among the kinky curly community the "big chop" is when you cut off your relaxed hair and wear a TWA or teeny weenie afro. This is usually not a decision taken lightly. Cutting off all your hair and learning how to manage and style hair that is a different texture and has different needs than your chemically processed hair obviously requires some patience and adjustment.
And then there are other "issues."
"What people don't understand is that it's not just the physical transition, it's also a mental transition because from like childhood up we've learned that straight hair is beautiful and textured hair is not," says Alicia Nicole Walton, who founded the website CurlyNikki.com, one of many resources for people with natural hair.
"Having to retrain yourself is a very difficult process, especially when you have everybody around you reinforcing the standard, 'Why don't you press it out?' 'Ooo girl, you need a comb.' 'I don't think you're going to be able to get a job with that hair,'" she says.
Right, all that she said. It was a struggle and the biggest issue for me was feeling attractive with this new look. As I watched Zina Saro-Wiwa's recent New York Times opinion documentary about black women transitioning from relaxed hair to their natural hair, it brought up feelings I had faced before deciding to big chop for the second time on April 21.

The First Cut Is The Deepest
The first time I transitioned to my natural hair was right after I got married in September 2007. My husband asked me once in passing if I had ever thought about going natural and I said, no, but then had the grand idea that I would try it. I got a Jheri curl at 10 (shut up! I wanted to be like Michael Jackson!), and a relaxer at 16. I didn't really remember what my virgin hair felt or looked like so this would be a great experiment. I talked to my hair stylist, Phyllis Reed, and we stopped chemically straightening my hair. She blow-dried it straight for several months before cutting off the relaxed ends in early 2008.
I immediately hated it. When I looked in the mirror all I saw was FACE, and it was too fat and round like Charlie Brown's. My skin flaws were magnified a gabillion times. Without my straight hair to pull down over my face, you could really see that one of my eyes closes to a squint when I smile. And the crooked tooth on the right side of my mouth? Sigh.
Still, I pushed forward because my husband seemed to like it, it was easier to manage because I could wet it, condition it and go, and I got more and better sleep because I didn't have to perch my head on my hand to try and preserve my expensive relaxed hairstyle from being smushed by the pillow. No more weekly visits to the hair stylist, no more spending time with a flat iron trying to straighten my roots that had reverted thanks to my scalp sweating in the hot Washington, D.C., summers.

This photo from July 2011 shows the loveliness that was my chemically straightened hair before I decided to go natural again.
This photo from July 2011 shows the loveliness that was my chemically straightened hair before I decided to go natural again.
Mito Habe-Evans/NPR
This photo from July 2011 shows the loveliness that was my chemically straightened hair before I decided to go natural again.
But despite all of that, in January 2009, I sat in the salon chair and told Phyllis to straighten my situation out. My husband was thrilled. He had never really liked it, he just wanted to be supportive. *Blink*
Still, a part of me felt like I didn't try hard enough, that I gave up on my hair too soon.
"There are ways to ease the transition from relaxed to natural hair — and with great style," says Mikki Taylor, editor-at-large for Essence magazine and author of Commander in Chic: Every Woman's Guide to Managing Her Style Like a First Lady. "A TWA is not your first resort, you only need do that if you choose to, but if you choose to do that, know that feeling attractive is internal, as it has everything to do with how you feel about yourself. The beauty doesn't change."
The Second Slice
After I divorced in October 2011, I decided to do it again. This second time around I started with the Google. In the three years since my first chop, it seemed to me as if the Web had exploded with videos, blogs and other resources for kinky curlies, along with stores carrying more products geared to that market. That may be because last year, 36 percent of black women said they did not relax their hair and sales of relaxer kits dropped 17 percent from 2006 to 2011, according to market research firm Mintel.
CurlyNikki.com was one of the resources I discovered in my hunt for help.
"Go in armed with as much knowledge as you possibly can to prepare yourself on the front end so you won't be taken by surprise," says Walton, the site's owner, whose book Better Than Good Hair is expected out in January. "There are going to be days that you are going to want to go back to the relaxer. Give yourself six months, see how your hair responds to the new routine and the new products and take it from there. When people take advantage of all the research out there it does make the journey a little less treacherous."
And Taylor gave some tips for maximizing the cute with a TWA.
"Maybe it's a long pair of earrings, that call attention to your beautiful long neckline, or perhaps it's about experimenting with color," says the beauty expert, who is considering transitioning her own hair. "If you want to get to know your natural hair then explore it and have fun and be the woman that you are — then you'll be free to experiment with all kinds of looks and not be intimidated in the subtle shifts that occur during the growth phases of your natural hair."
So I am chopped again, and this time I aim to stay natural.
Vive la difference!

Source: http://www.npr.org/2012/06/14/154512570/my-kinky-relationship-with-the-teeny-weenie-afro

Why not go with the 'fro:Thandie Newton is embracing her natural curls

For years, Hollywood stunner Thandie Newton championed sleek, straight locks. But lately, the actress' wild, glossy curls are the crowning glory of her public appearances.

Let Thandie inspire you to take a break from endless chemical treatments, and use our guide to help ride the wave of your naturally curly texture.

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Thandie Newton

Out with the old, in with the real you

Celebrity hair stylist, Charlotte Mensah is one of the UK's top professionals in the natural afro hair industry. She stresses the importance of having an advised strategy in place before growing out treated hair.

"Make sure you have a consultation for the transition from chemical to natural. Growing out your hair will leave you with a mixture of virgin and treated hair.

Managing two different textures is difficult to deal with, so address the balance by setting the hair – either in rollers or rods for a uniform look.

A trick I often use is wrapping the hair around straws! It gives a nice, evenly defined curl. If this is too time-consuming, the alternative is a short crop – many women are surprised by how fantastic this can look."

Whatever route you choose, Charlotte has one golden rule: moisture, moisture, moisture.
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A good reconstructive treatment with Shea Butter is a winner, and for day-to-day care, natural products such as Palmers Hair Dress or Macademia's Healing Oil Spray guarantee moisturised, manageable curls.

The miracle of Mizani Charlotte stamps her seal of approval on the Mizani System. Their comprehensive range of professional products are specially developed to care for excessively curly hair of every different variety.

Rush salon's afro hair specialist Emmanuel Barnet seconds her choice, and offers his tips for a stellar look to rival Ms Newton's.
"For luscious curly locks like Thandie's, there's nothing better than Mizani products as they keep the curls really fresh. Their True Textures Perfect Curl is great for a really glossy finish.

I always tell my customers to use twisting techniques overnight to keep the curls defined, rather than frizzy. Divide the hair into four sections, coiling it in your hands.
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Get Mizani in the UK


Then, tie the hair up in a silk scarf before going to bed. In the morning use the Mizani Gloss Veil to loosen hair – et voila: wild, natural curls!"

If you feel you can't achieve definition on your own, there's no harm in using styling tools to help you ride that perfect wave.

Enrapture's Totem Styler can help you achieve many looks, from tight curls or teased out, glamorous waves.

The most important aspect of going au naturel is your attitude.

"For a long time, big, curly hair was seen as a statement, and never as the stylish or fashionable option," Charlotte concludes.

"That is no longer the case, so go and wear your curls with pride!"

Question is when is Natural Too Natural?

Natural yes but with defined curls. Why is there such a debate, I wonder!



When Patrice Grell Yursik began wearing her hair in a wash-and-go style, she got lots of praise. “Women would tell me they wish their hair looked like mine,” said Ms. Yursik, 33, the creator of the blog Afrobella.
While African-American natural-hair advocates of yore, like Angela Davis, embraced a halo of tightly coiled hair, the new “natural” style of choice seems to be longer curls with more definition–which is not always easy to achieve, as Ms. Yursik can attest.
“Many of us have moved beyond the use of harsh chemicals to achieve a different texture, but we’re still walking around with the belief system that led relaxers to such prominence to begin with,” she said.
“The belief that straighter textures and longer lengths of hair are somehow more beautiful comes from what we see around us. Look at the images of black women in the media – if their hair isn’t straight, it’s a very particular type of curly look that’s meant to represent natural hair. It’s another way for the arbiters of mainstream beauty to divide our community.”
When singer Solange Knowles, 26, gave an interview about her hair on Essence.com, this division, referred to as “curlism,” got mainstream attention. Picked up by the popular natural hair blog Curly Nikki, the piece incited vitriolic responses from commenters, who felt Ms. Knowles, whose strands are tightly coiled, was a poor representation of women with natural hair (one person deemed it “unkempt”). “I never painted myself as a team natural vice president,” Ms. Knowles responded on Twitter. “My hair is not very important to me.”
Patrice Grell Yursik, the founder of Afrobella.com.Chuck Olu-AlabiPatrice Grell Yursik, the founder of Afrobella.com.


The negative response to kinky Afros is not universal. Viola Davis, 46, elicited a positive response when she wore her TWA, or “teeny weeny Afro,” as the look is known, on the red carpet at the 2012 Academy Awards. Christina Brown, 25, a social media specialist who founded the natural hair blog, Love Brown Sugar, suggested the approval came because “super short ‘fros on the red carpet,” are a rarity. Instead, “we often see this long voluminous curl as a lust-worthy style. It’s a societal norm that’s hard to break,” she said in a recent interview.
Many “naturals” manipulate their hair texture, using methods like twist-outs, braid-outs and Bantu knot-outs to “stretch” the hair and achieve a longer, more defined curl. Nicole Marie Melton of Bronxville, N.Y., an associate beauty editor at Essence.com, doesn’t think this is a bad thing. “Kinky hair that is not stretched is more prone to breakage along the spirals of the hair shaft,” said Ms. Melton, who is 28. “I wear my hair stretched 100 percent of the time because it offers me more versatility and protection from breakage.”
And Ms. Yursik believes that freedom to wear and celebrate one’s hair texture is still at the heart of the natural hair movement. “I think there are some who are in that ‘defined curls by any means necessary’ mind-set,” she said, “but there are also many naturals who still see this as being about freedom, and taking better care of your healthy, strong hair, no matter the texture.”
By Jessica Andrews with NYTimes Fashion; Style

Source: http://www.popularcritic.com/2012/06/26/natural-hair-writer-explains-the-fight-for-the-straight-curl/

Are black women learning to love their natural hair?

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I read this article by Jeneรฉ Osterheldt, she is an excellent columnist and writes for The Kansas City Star. It is no secret that no matter the type of hair you're born with,  we are never happy with it and find it either too curly, too kinky, too flat and more, we also complain that it doesn't grow fast enough, and we rarely think it looks good or happy with our hair's natural textures.

Read more here: http://www.kansascity.com/2012/07/01/3686150/black-women-are-learning-to-love.html#storylink=cpy
In her articleJeneรฉ talks about how black women are learning to love their natural hair. This phenomenon is a worldwide one and I hope it will continue.


Get the guide to grow your hair longer and healthier here


On sizzling summer days most of us want to just get our hair out of the way. We put it in a ponytail or hide it under a hat or a scarf just to make it go away.
But not last Wednesday. More than 100 women showed up at the American Jazz Museum to make a statement: Natural hair is beautiful. And Essence magazine was there to capture it on camera for its online feature “Street Style,” set to debut next month.
Black women of all shades showed up sporting afros, curly ’dos, dreadlocks, kinky pompadours, braids, twists and even bald heads. Rarely have I been in a room where the sisterhood felt so strong and confident among strangers. But these women bonded over their tresses because they all had been through the hair stresses.
Women of all colors struggle with their hair, but for black women, hair has often been a confidence maker or breaker. Think about it. Barbie doesn’t sport coarse and curly hair. Neither do most Disney princesses. Only recently, thanks to “Brave’s” Merida, has a princess had kinky curls. Not even the black princess had that.
Most of the world’s most celebrated beauties have straight, fine and flowing hair that blows in the wind. And there was a time when the corporate world didn’t accept afros, dreadlocks or ethnic styles. It was considered unprofessional.
For these reasons, some women resort to relaxers, weaves and keratin treatments to fit in. It starts to define them. There are women who won’t swim or work out in an effort to preserve their perfectly coifed ’do.
Our emotional kinks are so deep, they have been combed through in books, songs and debates and even documented in Chris Rock’s movie “Good Hair.”
But things have been changing for some time. I chopped my hair off and started all over 10 years ago this week. I was tired of being defined by my hair, so I took away its power.
Most days, it’s a mass of curls. But I flatiron it too. It has been a transition, learning to embrace my hair as it is. At first it was hard. Now there are dozens of products as well as YouTube tutorials, blogs and online clubs that cater to the conversion, from Natural Chica and Curly Nikki to CurlBox and Carol’s Daughter.


More and more, ethnic hair is showing up in the media. Earlier this year, Viola Davis dominated the red carpet when she sported her natural hair, a tight, curly afro, at the Oscars. Once known only as Beyoncรฉ’s little sister, singer Solange Knowles has become a brand of her own, a fashion icon. Many credit the leap to her bold, natural look.
And when a Photoshopped image of first lady Michelle Obama wearing a naturally curly ’do hit the Web, it went viral. Twitter, Facebook and blogs posted and reposted the image, with many hoping it was real. “America ain’t ready,” one blogger wrote about the ethnic style.
Sure there was a time, during the black power movement, when natural was trendy. But it was a passing trend, thought of as revolutionary. Why was it, then or now, considered daring and different to simply let your hair be as it was meant to be?
LaToya Rivers, a healthy hair specialist, says it’s because only recently has natural been truly embraced as beautiful in the mainstream. Women don’t know how to let go. Some of them have never seen the natural texture of their hair.
That’s why she’s hosting the Natural Hair Care Expo at the Holiday Inn at Coco Key Resort in Kansas City on Aug. 4. The event caught the eye of Essence, and that’s how our city got on its “Street Style” radar.
“It’s important that women start to see their hair as an accessory and not as their identity,” says LaToya, 35, who wears her hair in sister locks with golden honey highlights and pinned up very old Hollywood. She ditched relaxers seven years ago.
She styles hair at B Naturally U in Grandview. Her hair was once bone straight and past her shoulders. She relied on a relaxer. But after doing hair for 17 years and teaching classes on healthy hair, she wanted to be an example. And she wanted to love her hair, au natural.
“There is a need to bring women together and release the stigma attached to our hair,” she says. “Women must be empowered to enjoy their hair exactly the way it is.”
She also wants to get rid of the division among women with different types of hair. No more of the straight hair against the curly hair or the weaves and relaxers against the real hair. She says there is nothing wrong with weaves and straightening our hair. The problem is when we think we need it to look pretty.
“It’s about accepting yourself and respecting one another,” she says. “I teach people how to keep their hair healthy and how to get past the stereotypes and end that obligation to look like the norm.”
The photo shoot was unexpected, but she says it is very important to the movement.
“The more women see natural hair in the media, the more common it will become and the more at ease women and little girls will be with how they look naturally,” LaToya says. “We have to celebrate our hair, in all its textures and styles. Being yourself is beautiful.”

    http://blackbeautyandlonghair.blogspot.com/2012/07/are-black-women-learning-to-love-their.html

Source: http://www.kansascity.com/2012/07/01/3686150/black-women-are-learning-to-love.html

Read more here: http://www.kansascity.com/2012/07/01/3686150/black-women-are-learning-to-love.html#storylink=cpy

Are more black women opting to forego harsh hair chemicals for natural looks?

Walking the streets of London I am now astonished at how many black women sport their hair natural. Being nappy and natural myself I find that to be a great thing for us. Having natural hair means you start to learn more about yourself, it is not alwayss easy but it is worth it.

Catherine Paige never thought twice about the decision to stop using relaxers and other chemicals in her hair.
Although she had used various chemicals and experimented with numerous styles for the better part of two decades, Paige concluded there was nothing wrong with the hair she naturally inherited.
The mirror didn’t lie either, going natural looked good. It also felt good, Paige said.
The Carlisle resident has adopted a theme that seems to be catching on in many African-American communities: More black women are opting to go natural — with styles ranging from afros of varying lengths to braids and locs — rather than applying sodium hydroxide and other chemicals to their hair.
The switch to natural didn’t bring any complaints from Paige’s husband of 29 years, Victor. “He encouraged it,” she said.
It couldn’t hurt that the savings realized from not purchasing various hair products and regularly visiting salons could be better used, said Paige, who estimated her savings to be more than $200 per month.
Change in style
A recent report issued by the New York-based consumer spending and market research firm, Mintel, said black women are increasingly moving away from products that chemically relax or straighten their hair.
About 36 percent of black women surveyed in 2011 quit using chemical products, according to Mintel. That was up from about 25 percent the year before and, at the same time, sales of relaxer kits dropped more than 17 percent, Mintel reported.
Terrie O’Neal, the owner of Carlisle’s Visions of You Hair Salon at 138 N. Hanover St., said she first noticed the natural hair trend about a year ago.
“I think it’s wonderful,” O’Neal said.
The trend has just as much to do with the ease which women can maintain their natural hair as it does economics, she added.
“If not properly cared for, a relaxer can do some damage to the hair so some think going natural is easier. It’s not for everyone, but I’m considering going natural, too,” O’Neal said, as she touched up the natural hairstyle of long time client and Carlisle resident Evette Carbone.
“The older you get, the more you really don’t want to mess with your hair,” Carbone said. “Before going natural, I had to use a blow dryer, flat iron and a curling iron. In today’s economy, you have to be savvy and smart, and going natural saves a lot of money.”
Most, like Carbone and Paige, who have experienced styles such as the bouffant, the bob, wrap, curl set and pixie, haven’t regretted going natural.
“The biggest thing is that black women don’t really know their hair,” said Paige, who went with the natural style 3 years ago. “Most are afraid of it. But, it (knowing one’s hair) is a process and you have to educate yourself.”
That education includes how to treat natural hair, said Paige, who uses drops of vitamin E, shea oil, virgin olive oil, tea-tree oil and grape seed oil to help keep her natural hair healthy.
Going natural also is, in some ways, a nod to the African American heritage, Paige’s 17-year-old daughter, Ciรฉra Paige said. “You’re being true… going natural is being true to your hair,” she said.
Nationwide trend
The new hair trend has also stirred a great deal of celebrity and media interest.
Recently, popular African American magazines such as Essence have been featuring more women who have gone natural.
Hollywood’s ideology of the long and straight-haired women has also taken a backseat to the new style as an array of image conscious celebrities and statement-making fashionistas have turned to the look that have many remembering the pre-modern day black woman.
Best Actress nominee Viola Davis created a stir earlier this year during a red carpet appearance at the Academy Awards when she sported a short, amber-hued afro.
“My husband wanted me to take the wig off,” Davis told InStyle magazine. “He said, ‘If you want to wear it for your career, that’s fine, but in your life wear your hair. Step into who you are!’ It’s a powerful statement.”
Where once unacceptable — in 1981 the U.S. Supreme Court sided with American Airlines who fired a flight attendant because they said her corn rolls hairstyle was “too ethnic” — Americans now are embracing the natural look.
Motion pictures and television shows have also tackled the issue, most notably in the 2009 film, “Good Hair,” where comedian Chris Rock poked fun at the various ways in which black women used chemicals in their hair.
Rock’s film, which Carbone credits with leading her to decide to go natural, highlighted the various natural styles women could have such as the teeny-weeny afro, coils, braids, twists, locs and dreadlocks.
The comedian showed how many black women regularly stressed over their hair styles and he set out to counter the ideology that straight hair equated to being good looking while wearing a natural style was reflective of an unkempt or unprofessional women.
“I know of one girl who lost who she was because of her hair,” Catherine Paige said. “If she couldn’t have a weave in her hair, she couldn’t go out in public.”
What ultimately changed her friend’s perception?
“It started with the first hair-cut. It liberated her,” Paige said. Also, one of the better compliments, Paige said, is when it is realized how many different styles a person can wear with the natural look.
“But, the best complement is flattery,” Ciรฉra Paige said. “When I go to school and I’m told how cute my hair is every day. Everything revolves around hair for women. Hair becomes a way of life.”


Read more: http://cumberlink.com/news/local/more-black-women-opting-to-forego-harsh-hair-chemicals-for/article_7638f8e0-b2aa-11e1-87cf-001a4bcf887a.html#ixzz1zfVHlEa4

Tuesday 3 July 2012

I can say my hair does not define me

Yes, I'm one of those who think that my hair does not define me. I believe many ladies feel the same, but that doesn't mean we don't like our hair and everything that goes with it.
Great article.


Whether it is fake or natural, hair is a woman’s crown and pride.
28 June 2012 | NOKUTHULA SONILE
 
Like anything else in life if a woman’s hair is not growing as fast as she likes, why not buy it?
After watching 3rd Degree on e.tv, I feel sorry for anyone who feels pushed to stop wearing hair weaves.
Yes, the women in India, according to 3rd Degree and Internet reports, sacrifice their hair to their gods, and ladies all over the world buy it.
Of course this will be a red flag for anyone who believes that hair carries spiritual meaning of the person who shaved it off to sell.
It does sound creepy.
Treating hair with straightening chemicals and wearing weaves does not mean a woman is not proud of her ethnic hair; it is a trend that many women enjoy, one influenced by the West and media, but is that bad?
If someone has no qualms about wearing a weave, what is the point of stating whose head it is from?
There are so many things people do that are influenced by Western culture, such as Western attire, Christian beliefs, and other acquired lifestyle choices.
Just like a woman’s hair preference, these decisions do not take away from the fact that one is an African; it is merely a desired look.
In the new South Africa women can buy themselves expensive cars and property. Why not hair as well?
Putting down women who wear weaves and straighten their hair with hair products will not stop them from going after the hair they want.
White women have been blessed with long tresses of hair, but a lot of them consistently colour it till we forget their natural hair colour. Some wear hair extensions.
Could they be “running away” from their natural selves too?
Women are moving with the times and enjoy various hair types and colours.
Exploring those seductive options is merely appreciation of beautiful things, not a way to escape being brunette or having an afro.

Let women who love hair weaves continue to do so; do not get heavy about it.
Life has so many options, and as long as no one was held hostage while cutting off their hair to make a weave, a lot of women will keep wearing 100% human hair for as long as they like.

Source: http://www.citizen.co.za/citizen/content/en/citizen/opinion-columnists?oid=289359&sn=Detail&pid=146826&My-hair-does-not-define-me

Is There Really a Threat of Generic Brands: Natural Hair-Care Companies, Black-Business Owners, and the Retail Boom

This is a great article which looks at the threat of generic brands. We are bombarded with new products and so much advertisements so it may be good to know what's behind all these. Thanks for a great article.

While flipping through your favorite magazine you may notice an increase in advertisement featuring African-American models and celebrities who've opted to go relaxer free. Among the products advertised, you may run across many that are Black-owned.
The increase of natural hair awareness is prompting a gradual increase in Black-owned companies catering to natural hair. Black women are increasingly making efforts to manage their natural hair textures, and by doing so, they are generating a huge market for natural hair care products, which has attracted the attention of mainstream companies looking to enter the natural hair-care arena. As a result, companies that once marketed exclusively to relaxed hair (Proctor and Gamble, Revlon, etc.) are creating new products to coincide with other independent companies that cater exclusively to natural and curly hair textures.
The Black Snob's, Danielle Belton, wrote an insightful article for Clutch magazine concerning mainstream hair-care companies and their sudden shift toward the natural care market.
According to Belton,
"These companies are now followers - shifting formulas and marketing strategies to keep up with their African-American lead upstarts, who came out to dominate the market right from underneath them... Going natural is now a big and growing part of the more than $165 million black hair care mass market. Companies that focused primarily on creating hair relaxers are scrambling to capitalize on what they initially thought would be just a "fad."

I agree. But, what would happen if distributors and manufacturers created a "generic band" in an attempt to keep up with African-American companies. Will mainstream companies attempt to swallow the market by incorporating similar products?
The practice of creating a "generic brand" is fairly common in the retail industry, often frequenting the market whenever a patent expires. Generally, companies hold exclusive rights for a limited number of years before other companies can produce a generic. In most cases, patents and pending patent application are published online, making it easily accessible to anyone looking to create a similar product. Although generic brands may not pose a significant threat to mainstream companies, it could very well be an issue for smaller more independent business owners, who may not have the resources to sue.
For example, take the ongoing rift between natural hair-care brand, Mixed Chicks and Sally's Beauty Supply. Mixed Chicks, founders Kim Etheredge and Wendy Levy, accused Sally's Beauty Supply of creating, Mixed Silk, a product strikingly similar to the Mixed Chicks conditioner. Whether or not Sally's Beauty Supply is actually at fault is still yet to be determined, but the situation lends itself to smaller independent brands who pursue huge companies based on "generic" accusations.
According to MadameNoire.com,
" In March 2011, Mixed Chicks formally filed a lawsuit against Sally Beauty Supply for trademark infringement, trade dress infringement and unfair competition claiming that the chain was selling and advertising an imitation of their product".


The decision to sue did not come easily. Here's where it got complicated:

"If a court ruled against Mixed Chicks, the two women could be forced to compensate Sally Beauty for any lost revenue. On the other hand, if Etheredge and Levy filed a lawsuit and won, they might be able to get Mixed Silk off the shelves--and collect damages for lost sales and a tarnished reputation caused by customer confusion with what Levy and Etheredge considered inferior products."
Yet, despite legal costs and an uncertain outcome, Mixed Chicks, is still thriving. According to Inc. com, "Despite the suit, Mixed Chick's business has continued to grow. The company added seven products in 2011 and is now distributed to 3,000 retail stores." This could be contributed to market power and brand loyalty among Bi-racial and African-American markets.
Inc. com states that, "Discovery can be an incredibly arduous process, and a multibillion-dollar company can bleed a small company dry. It takes time, money, and resources, and sometimes its death by a million cuts".
Fortunately, though, Black-owned companies continue to thrive. But as mainstream companies struggle to enter the natural market, will generic brands pose a threat to smaller brands?

Source: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/tamika-sayles/natural-hair-products_b_1629281.html

This is a great DIY Intensive Conditioning Treatment for Black, Afro/Caribbean Hair

Again, I was browsing the internet and thought of you ladies. I read this and wanted to share with you what looks like a great DIY intensive conditioning treatment for our afro hair.



Black Afro/Caribbean hair is the most vulnerable to damage and breakage out of any hair texture due to its unique structure and configuration. This means it needs specialized products that provide extra hydration and protection in order to look, feel and be at its best. We suggest that those with Afro textured hair use a weekly pre-shampoo deeply intensive conditioning treatment. Philip Kingsley makes a multi-award winning treatment called Elasticizer Extreme, but if you wish to make your own hydrating treatment for extremely porous, tight curls at home, whisk together the following:

2 eggs
2oz double cream
1oz castor oil
1oz melted butter
1oz purified water
Juice of half a grapefruit

Refrigerate overnight if necessary and use as needed.
Apply the mixture to the whole length of your hair in sections. Work into your hair with fingers and massage your scalp for five-ten minutes with a gentle kneading motion. Leave in for twenty minutes (or overnight) and shampoo and condition as usual. Do this as often as possible until your hair is sufficiently improved.

Source:

http://blog.philipkingsley.com/2012/06/26/diy-intensive-conditioning-treatment-for-black-afrocaribbean-hair/

If you have relaxed hair, here are 7 tips for you

I was reading this great blog and got to an article that might interest all the ladies with relaxed hair, who want their hair to remain healthy and beautiful. It is full of very accurate fact and these 7 tips will make a difference in the state of your relaxed hair. Thank you AfroDeity.

So you havent joined the naturalution and you like keeping your hair straight with a relaxer, there are several things you can do to take care of your hair.

As your hair will be more fragile because of the chemicals in your relaxer (these break the bonds in your hair) you will need to treat it a bit more delicately and if you know how, taking care of relaxed hair isnt actually that difficult and doesnt have to be a chore!

1. Rules for relaxers:

  • Dont relax hair too frequently - The generally rule on most relaxer kits is relax every 6 - 8 weeks, It is probably best to leave as long as you can, 10 - 12 weeks if you can. This gives you more new growth so that overlapping relaxer is harder and allows your scalp to rest.
  • Dont overlap the Relaxer - adding more relaxer to previously relaxed ends doesnt make them any straighter, they are already weak and all this does is cause them to fall off.
  • Wash out the relaxer properly. If you must self relax as I am sure many of us have done at least once, make sure you use the neutralising shampoo in the kit and follow the instructions on the kit. Some have pre-shampoo treatments and some ask you to wait 5 mins before washing out. Make sure you follow this and wash out the relaxer as much as you can, 10 times if you have to!
  • Follow the timing instructions, do not leave relaxer in for more time than it says on the box and use the correct relaxer strength for your hair type.
  • If in doubt take your home kit to a professional and get them to do it for you.

2 . Moisture - Relaxed hair is dry and needs moisture.

  • Wash your hair regularly, this keeps the scalp clean and brings moisture to your hair
  • Lock in that moisture in with natural oils - Coconut Oil, Jojoba Oil, Argan Oil, JBCO. So many wonderful oils with so many uses! I fing Jojoba Oil especially beneficial for relaxed hair!
  • Invest in a good leave in conditioner and moisturise on daily basis.
  • Deep condition every week.
3. Perfect your hair washing technique Shampoo Scalp, Condition Ends
  • Shampoo your scalp not your ends. Over-shampooing ends will strip them of much needed moisture, thus leaving the processed ends extremely dry and prone to breakage.
  • Condition your ends. Get most of your deep conditioner needs to end up on your ends.
4. Careful Styling Techniques
  • Invest in a good heat protectant. Apply liberally before using heat on your hair
  • Experiment with a few heatless styles
  • Air Dry your hair.
  • Avoid metal and plastic brushes and combs as they can pull out and break already weakened strands and cause the dry ends to frizz.
5. Know your Products and Ingredients
  • Protein and Moisture balance is important. Try to alternate between the two types of products
  • Determine how often your hair really needs a protein treatment and switch between protein-based and moisturising products depending on your hair’s needs.
  • Look for natural ingredients in your products
  • I recommend trying products with Coconut Oil. It is definitely all it is cracked up to be !
6. Protect Your Ends
  • Wear a satin scarf at night
  • Protective Styles to keep your ends moisturised and protected from your collar and cotton clothing
  • Up dos (such as buns) that look best with the ends tucked in allow you to and protect your ends during harsh weather.
  • Stay away from regular rubber bands with metal parts because they will rip out your sensitive strands.



I think I got most of them but If you have tips to share please post! We love to hear from you !!

Embrace Your Inner AfroDeity
Leilu