Tuesday 13 December 2011

Daily care for mixed race hair

We have previously treated the subject of shampooing and caring for your mixed race child's hair. In this article we are going to treat daily care and products to use or most importantly products to avoid.
So you have shampooed, braided and let air dry your child's hair. If you can leave the braids in your child's hair it is easier, however if your child is getting older, she or he might want to look cool or have left their hair loose.
First of all for healthy hair stay away from any products with petroleum, petrolatum, mineral oils and alcohol such as isopropyl alcohol and anything ending with an 'ol' . These products are notorious for drying out curly/coiled hair.
Second even if you are tempted do not use blow dryers on your child's naked, curls protect them from excess heat, sun and chlorine. When they go swimming whether in the sea or in a swimming pool braid the hair one or two braids should be enough and once finished always deep condition. Avoid getting sand in the hair, that's a nightmare!
Never, ever, ever comb mixed race hair when dry (types 3 and 4 hair), only comb during the conditioning treatment or under the shower or when the hair is very wet immediately after rinsing, with a wide toothed comb.


Your mixed race child's hair just like coiled, curly, African descent hair is EXTREMELY DRY, the holy grail is moisture. The more you moisturise the healthier the hair will be, the more pleasure you will have to deal with your mixed race child's hair, the less complaints or cries will come from her/him, you will surprise yourself to be looking forward to what will become loving, bonding experience for you both. It is the secret to an easier life both for you and for your child. Moisturising does not stop with the weekly/bi-weekly wash (co-wash).
To save time it is best to groom your child's hair, in the evening. As part of the evening routine, when with a small dollop of moisturising cream again you will find the right amount to use with practice, Use a spray put a bit of conditioner and add some water to dilute the product, the mixture shouldn't be too light. If your child's is type 2/3a hair you can dilute it more than if the the hair is type 3b, 3c and types 4 hair will need heavier moisturising cream as well as a conditioning spray to avoid knotting (some tips on how to avoid knots).
For your child's hair to be well moisturised and healthy use the products every night, and braid the hair to keep the moisture until the morning. You can part the hair into four sections and one by one moisturise and braid. To keep the braids do not use bands or barettes that will tear the hair. Be gentle and use bobbles, scrunchies or bands covered with woven fabric (no metal).
You can also cut part of your old but clean tight to use as scruchies, nylon is very gentle with the hair and doesn't tear it.
Use NATURAL! products and oils, such as coconut oil, castor oil, carrot oil.
Do not straighten/relax/texturize the naturally curly hair of your mixed race child's hair. It might be tempting but only troubles lie ahead if you go down that route. The effect may last all their lives, I'm talking about dry scalp and excessive dandruffs which is the direct result of using these products, especially when you start too young.
Grooming textured and curly hair is no longer difficult nowadays. Learning how to maintain and groom your child's an enriching experience which in turn will also show your child how unique and gorgeous he or she is, and it will help your child personality by promoting self-esteem, confidence and a sense of pride in their appearance and in who they are.
I highly recommend the book "Curly Girl" by Lorraine Massey
If you are in the UK or in Europe (the postage is not expensive), try Amazon UK

If you are in the US or Canada, try Amazon.com

Si vous etes en France, allez sur Amazon.fr


Caring for your mixed race child's hair

1. Washing
For spiral curls and tight curls alternate washing with extra gentle shampoo once or twice a month with a good co-wash - ( washing with conditioner) in between. It may sound strange especially if you are yourself caucasian with type 1 or type 2 hair and are used to washing your hair with shampoo everyday. Why do we wash with conditioner rather than with shampoo?
Or why do you 'caucasians with type 1 hair or type 2 hair' wash your hair with shampoo as often as you do? Shampoos are formulated to strip off all natural hair oils. You wash you hair with shampoo so often because of the excess of sebumm that your scalp produces. The sebum is grease and travels along your hair shaft or is helped by you brushing your hair and distributing the sebum (grease) all along the hair strand. As a result if you do not wash your hair frequently, your hair looks greasy and dirty and is not flowy and supple as it usually is. Black diaspora hair (mixed race, African, Carribbean hair)is very dry and our scalp does not produce as much sebum as a caucasian's scalp. Also, the sebum produced does not and cannot travel along the hair shaft because the hair is curly or tighly coiled, which breaks the journey of the sebum and leaves it on the scalp, the hairline and a couple of centimeter at most away from the scalp, which is why the hair close to the scalp is always softer and doesn't break that easily.
Since mixed race hair doesn't have to get rid of the greasy sebum, it doesn't need as much or as harsh washing as caucasian hair. Which is why co-wash is enough to keep the hair clean, and has the advantage of smoothed and moisturising the hair in the process. When you shampoo 'black' hair you strip it of a much needed moisture and you damage the strand where the sebum never got in the first. Only use shampoo to clarify your hair and get rid of products build up, that is the accumulation of products we use to moisturise the hair day after day. Once or twice a month should be enough, if the hair is dry or needs washing use a conditioner instead of a shampoo.
For all you white mothers of mixed race children I am sure it is a relief to learn that you do not have to wash your child's hair too often. It is a chore, and it is heart breaking hearing your child cry because it hurts!
2. Conditioning
when you use a shampoo, rinse it out and condition with a good, highly moisturising conditioner, use a stronger conditioner than the one you use on your co-wash days. While the conditioner is in the hair, comb the hair through GENTLY with a wide-toothed comb. If the hair is tightly coiled (4a) avoid brushing, otherwise use a brush as it will help defining the natural curls but regardless of the mixed race hair type be gentle and careful when brushing through. You can cover the hair with a shower cap and wrap the head with a towel for 20-30 minutes before rinsing out the conditioner. The hair will be left very soft and supple. If you do not have time to wash and condition, do a co-wash. Never use shampoo without conditioning the hair afterwards.
3. Styling
Make sure to use leave-in conditioner, they are a life saving find! Comb the hair very carefully (to learn how click here)
If the hair is short I simply let it air dry. For longer hair use a towel or a t-shirt and wrap it around the head for a very short time to absorb excess water. If you want the curly look, apply the leave-in conditioner straight after removing the excess water, apply a large amount of leave-in conditioner/moisturizing cream to your child hair, be generous curl maintenance requires water/moisture- the hair must stay very damp when adding the large amount of leave-in conditioner/moisturizing cream because as the water evaporates and the hair dries, it will absorb the water and the product, if there is not enough product the hair will remain quite dry. Practice will help you find out the right amount of product to use in your child hair so that the mixed race hair is moisturise and soft and not cloggy and lump made heavy by too much product. There are different cream texture for different hair types, type 2 hair and type 3a, 3b will need lighter products than type 3c and type 4a which would benefit from heavier products. Do not worry you will find out what works best for your child's hair.
If you are in the UK or in Europe (the postage is not expensive), try Amazon UK

If you are in the US or Canada, try Amazon.com

Si vous etes en France, allez sur Amazon.fr

I hope this post has been helpful. Do not hesitate to leave comments or questions.

Combing mixed race hair

Mixed race like African/Carribbean hair is best not to be manipulated too much, that includes being combed. There is always the temptation to comb your hair when it is straight, after a relaxer treatment, or a blow-drying session  for example but you can resist the urge.
When your hair is not relaxed or straight it is definitely best to leave it alone. Here are some advice on caring for curly/mixed race hair.
1. Only comb when you have conditioner in your hair or if you are under a stream of water, it will avoid pulling your hair out! If you really want or have to comb your hair at any other time comb VERY GENTLY through with a wide tooth comb. Do NOT brush your hair at any time, brushes cause damage to mixed race hair especially on dry hair, brushing is good for caucasian hair because it helps distribute the sebum along the length of the hair strand. Black and most mixed race hair do not suffer from excess sebum on the scalp which is why, washing hair with shampoo everyday is not necessary.
2. You can blow-dry and flat-iron your hair (not right after a relaxer though) but make sure you protect it first because the heat process is VERY damaging to tightly coiled and/or curly hair. Your hair is already very dry by nature, don't do anything to increase the dryness or it will break and fall out and you will be left with no hair. Mixed race hair, just like African/Carribbean hair must be kept as moisturised as possible to avoid breakage or such disaster. It is best not to use heat to often, once a month or less is advisable.
3. After shampooing your hair. The best and easy way to avoid breakage or damage to your hair is to pull the damp hair back into a bun or loosely braided ponytail, or even two braids and let the hair dry on its own.
4. To hold your hair use plastic holders or cloth scrunchies or you can also cut piece of clean tight to use as hair holder, they are very effective at keeping your hair in place and do not pull or tear your hair out like the other holders do.
5. As your hair grows and becomes stronger and healthier, you can wear a loose ponytail everyday. You can also wear braids out and from time to time you can even have your hair loose.
6. To prevent breakage and keep the moisture in it is best to braid the hair at night( 4 or more braids) and consider wearing a silk or satin (or anything soft) scarf to bed, so that hair does not rub and break on the pillow when sleeping. Alternatively, you can also use a silk pillow, if you are among those who go to bed with a scarf on your head and wake up with the said scarf anywhere but on your head.
7. To avoid breakage and because the hair gets dry around the hairline and even more at the ends – make sure to apply a small amount of moisturiser like, you can do that right before braiding your hair every night.
Some good moisturisers: Africa’s Best Shea Butter PLUS Conditioner or Dark and Lovely Rich and Natural Hair Dress Hope this post has been helpful and you have found answers to your questions. Do not hesitate to leave comments or ask questions.
All the best.
If you want an idea of the products available have a look on Amazon, they have a good range of products and even if you don't buy from there you will have an idea of what the products look like.
If you are in the UK or in Europe go to Amazon.co.uk
If you are in the US go to Amazon.com
Si vous etes en France allez sur Amazon.fr

Relaxing mixed race, curly and Indian hair types

Relaxing mixed race hair types should be avoided, especially with children as it is a dangerous process, it burns your scalp and damages your hair. But if you have no other means of managing your hair or if you just fancy a change, make sure that you:
1. Relaxing your hair
You only use a MILD relaxer/perm treatment any stronger and it will do damage. You can use any relaxer as long as it is a MILD relaxer treatment. Stretch your treatment for as long as you can, only retouch your hair every 4 months (6 months if you can), when you apply the relaxer, only apply it to the roots trying to avoid the hair which are already relaxed, that is one of the reason why having a lot of regrowth is easier for retouch. Also, the less exposed your system is to the relaxer treatment and all its chemicals the better, so try and stretch your relaxer for as long as you can, I mean do not follow the instruction to relax every 4 weeks, it will weaken your hair strand, damage your scalp (burns) which will in time dry up your scalp and give you all kind of conditions starting with dandruffs.
Relaxer:You can use Mizani, Dark and Lovely,TCB No Base Crรจme Hair Relaxer with Protein and DNA
Never leave the treatment longer than 25 minutes, make sure the product covers all your new (hair) growth.Only apply the relaxer on your fine hair and sensitive areas, such as the hairline, hair near the neck, ears and the front of your head, at the end. They shouldn't need more than 10-15 mins. Once you have finished applying the relaxer and smoothed your hair wash out the relaxer thoroughly, make sure there is none left, the water must be clear and residue free. Apply a moisturising or protein conditioner for 20 mins and rinse with cold water to close the hair cuticles, the(hair)cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair, it protects the inner structure of the hair. Relaxers treatments, just like any other chemical treatments enter the hair cortex and raise the scales on the cuticle, leaving the hair shaft and the cortex (middle of the hair shaft) vulnerable. Once your hair is free of conditioner apply the neutralising shampoo to neutralise the relaxer's chemicals. Wash at least three (3) times to be sure all chemicals are gone and your hair is free of any – Once all your relaxer is gone, wash your hair with a moisturising shampoo once and follow by applying a deep conditioner. Keep the deep conditioner another 20 mins, cover with a shower cap and use heat if you can for best results.


Charlie Baltimore

2. Shampooing mixed race hair
If you or when you decide to wash your hair with shampoo, use a mild one. There is no timeframe on hair washing but it is best not to use shampoo more than every 10-14 days, but you can condiwash (use conditioner instead of shampoo) as often as you wish. After washing apply a highly moisturising conditioner . Once a month after your shampoo, deep condition your hair for 30 minutes, apply the deep conditioning treatment to wet hair, cover with a shower cap or plastic wrap or bag, wrap a towel around your head and use heat if you can for 30 minutes.
Best shampoos: ‘Dark & Lovely Moisture Seal 3-in-1 shampoo’ or ‘Nexxus Therapee Moisturising Shampoo’; Moisturising conditioner:‘Nexxus Humectress Ultimate Moisturising Conditioner’ Deep conditioner:‘Nexxus Emergencee
If you are in the UK or in Europe go to Amazon.co.uk

If you are in the US go to Amazon.com

Si vous etes en France allez sur Amazon.fr

3. Style mixed race hair
It is best to use rollers right after relaxing your hair, avoid combing too much and to strong direct heat.
I hope this was useful to you. Don't hesitate to leave comments or ask questions.